Trying ouds, reading about ouds, thinking about ouds. I have three, two from Byredo and the Kilian. I will be back with reflections. In the meantime have a look at THIS. Juliette has a gun. I have a crush on this brand right now. To be continued.
In the meantime, watch your sillage.
, tonka bean
“A tobacco aroma with sweet undertones of honey. A pure aphrodisiac”. This is how today’s fragrance is described by Kilian. And Kilian’s perfumers know their stuff so I am sure this potion has caused more than one baby in its lifetime. For me…no. Unfortunately. I would love to love tobacco and honey. I want to love every Kilian fragrance because the ones that I do love I am completely enchanted by. And I know enough to know that every black bottle with this name has been created with great passion and dedication. Also I am interested in all sorts of connections between the olfactorial world and the emotional world. So I am sorry to say, “Back to Black: aphrodisiac.…our paths will never cross again”.
The first two hours I was intrigued by this perfume. I felt like I smelled like a male rock star. Crude, restless, eager, fierce. I did however not feel like that rock star, but like I had borrowed Mick Jaggers perfume. A bit weird but interesting! However the fierceness disappeared and turned into something more like heavy incense at Midnight Mass. Bit too much of it for me, I couldn’t carry it off, but still… interesting. But then by the end of this day suddenly something entirely different emerged. To me, it resembled heavy roses and soap. I know a lot of people think that sounds beautiful but it is just not my thing. I felt like when you have not rinsed the soap away from your hands and that experience to me is really uncomfortable, just the thought of it makes my head itch. But this is personal, the people in my company did not react like this at all or even sense that sort of thing.
My reflections do not mean anything else than this, a bad match simply and I would love to hear someone else describe a contrary experience of this fragrance to me. In fact, when you google “kilian aphrodisiac review” you will find exclamations of great joy. And this, is one of the things that makes perfume so interesting.
So, please look at the notes below and if you like the sound of them look up reviews on blogs, Fragrantica etc. This could be a sensational discovery for you. And now I am going to look up the notes – which I have in fact not done before this very moment because I wanted to give you a sincere reflection without having “the right answer”.
Ok, another floral day… Not my thing. Still not my thing. But, if you like light florals you will probably love this one. It is very springy and very feminine and gentle. Like a soft kiss on the cheek. You hardly notice that you are wearing a perfume but you smell really nice. And I mean really really nice. It does not however make me want to surrender as much as it makes me feel like I already have surrendered, which to me is a less interesting feeling. But if you want to have a perfume that feels elegant and easy, try this one. Also I would say that it is an excellent choice for environment or situations where a more extrovert fragrance is not suitable.
, base note
, frederic malle
Second day with this diabolic caress.
I am infatuated. I keep smelling my own skin and every time I do it smells differently. It feels like I keep chasing it, the scent. Trying to capture it. Eight hours after application only a soft basenote veil is left and you have to be very close to feel it. So I put my wrist right under my friend Fredrik’s nose. He is a photograper
with a divine eye and he has been wearing Noir Epices
by Michel Roudnitska so you understand… he understands. He tells me I smell like I am wearing a man’s perfume, but he says it with a smile that can only mean that it is in a really good way. Before he has finished describing his reaction the fragrance has changed again. Which gives me a reason to start all over and reapply. I have it in my pocket. I have been carrying the sample with me for two days, every now and then I have to reach for it. Love is an understatement. Fredrik leaves with arms covered in styrax and castoreum.
For some reason, for me it is really about basenotes. I am obsessed with basenotes. But then I also prefer afternoons, Sundays and autumn. The dance between the resinoids, woods and glands in this fragrance intoxicate me. I don’t feel the violet at all. I feel an almond that is not there. I feel so many things and this fragrance just keeps changing. But there is a constant balance between soft and coarse. Between close and escape.
This is what perfumery as an art is about. The creation of adventure. Artistry and mathematical precision in magic union.
After some floral confusion for a few days everything fell into place today.
I am not at all ready to let this go and wear a new fragrance tomorrow. I am in the middle of a love affair. So I am breaking the 11 days with Kilian and one fragrance per day rule. But this is my game so I can. I’ll be back with reflections around this liaison extra-ordinaire tomorrow.
I have a weakness for Iris. It is a scent that gives a fragrance immediate elegance and it quietly travels between confidence, politeness, reservation and kindness. Extrovert and disciplined one second, discreet and sophisticated the next. It is also a note that I love experiencing on different people and especially both men and women. Iris is so elegant, and so versatile. So I was looking forward to this.
This is a lovely fragrance. I can imagine that many people would feel very comfortable with it and that it would blend nicely with most body temperatures, skins, characters, textures. I think it would be very interesting on a masculine man. On me, it felt light and undemanding. I had a moment when it gave me associations with traveling in warm equatorial countries. Not because it smells like a warm equatorial country but because it is the kind of fragrance that you would feel comfortable and invigorated applying for dinner on a warm day. I also think it would be lovely with light clothes in linen and elegant sandals.
For me it was maybe a bit too light. I felt like I was searching for something that was not there and like it left me too soon. But like I said, this is a lovely fragrance. It works very well in a business context and does not demand attention. Also one of rather few interesting perfumes that would work very well at a dinner or lunch.
This is an unusual one. For a Kilian. It is less complex than what I associate with this perfume house and lacks some of that darksidedness. If I didn’t know this was a Kilian I wouldn’t have guessed… But then let’s be frank, I am not a tuberose type of girl. I generally don’t like florals (there are always exceptions and one should embrace the exceptions in life), they make me feel a bit uncomfortable. I could try to explain why but I won’t, it is a matter of compatibility. So, this is just very obviously not a fragrance for me. I find it very very pretty, but uninteresting. It is like absolutely nothing in me or on my skin reacts with this formula. Does this mean I think it is a bad perfume? Absolutely not. This is not a review, I don’t believe in perfume reviews. I am also sure there are many people who feel completely lifted and enchanted with this fragrance. If you like florals and are not into heavy scents, then this is a very elegant undemanding option.
|image from dalybeauty.blogspot.com
It is a man. I am sure of it. A tall man with integrity in corduroy. He has the fingers of a pianist and speaks of politics. It is a fragrance of an intellectual man, sharp and keeping the world at a distance. Not someone you hug. Someone you would really want to discuss the world with by a fireplace with some incredible cognac though.
Two hours later he is gone. He has left a veil of something that makes me think of Santa Maria Novella or a meeting between the clergy and herbs. But the man is replaced by a woman with strong attitudes and sharp features. She takes over a room.
She stays for about an hour. Then enters a different person. Someone more subdued but confident. Much softer though. I envision a baroness from Veneto in masculine clothes and unruly hair. I like her.
As day turns into evening the herbs are gone. Also the sharpness. What remains is a soft warm velvety vanilla. Where did they all go?
Kilian strikes again.
I am limitlessly happy to be introduced to this love-affair between oud, benzoin and vanilla. For more praise for Kilian see my previous posts, this one and this one.
Despite there being a huge global online perfume community I have seen very few examples of perfume houses that really excel in social media. A few web sites have tests where you can get help in finding your fragrance type, some web sites are extremely well-designed (favorite: Le Labo), some are strikingly generous and informative (for example Mandy Aftel). But social media – general impression is that there is much work to do. The most interesting communication is created by the perfumistas rather than the perfumers, is my impression. If you have examples that contradict this statement – please share!
My favorite right now web-wise is By Kilian as this perfume house creates nice links between information, shop, customer care and exclusivity. Everything is also very well-designed and has a tonality that fits the feeling of the fragrances. By Kilian has a facebook-page that actually does stay active and a part of is it the Kilian Club which gives you access to aming others things – samples delivered straight to your home. A couple of months ago I received a very elegant whole kit of samples and it really felt like getting a treasure.
So today I would really like to compliment By Kilian on their way of staying in touch with fans and also their generosity. Really really nice.